The Best Shampoo
and Conditioner for You
Shampoos are designed to remove dirt, excess oil and
dead skin cells from the scalp and hair. Using shampoo isn't
rocket science, but there are one or two things you should
know. Unless your hair and scalp are unusually dirty or have
lots of buildup, it's only necessary to lather once. Concentrate
on the scalp, and don't scrub -- hair is fragile when wet.
And most important, be sure to rinse well.
There are various cleansers -- called "surfactants"
-- used in shampoo; among the most common are sodium or ammonium
laureth sulfate, sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate, and TEA-lauryl
sulfate. Of these, sodium lauryl sulfate and TEA-lauryl sulfate
tend to be somewhat harsh and can irritate a sensitive scalp.
Most shampoos (except clarifying shampoos) also contain some
conditioning agents like humectants , silicone and protein,
but in much lower amounts than in conditioner; these stay
on your hair until the next time you wash it. Other ingredients
produce lather, make the product thick and give it a nice
scent and appearance.
Conditioners are made to protect hair from
heat and styling damage; reduce friction both between individual
hairs and between hair and your comb; moisturize; reduce static
and porosity; and impart shine. Generally, the longer you
leave a conditioner on, the more chance it has to attach itself
to the cuticle (it doesn't penetrate all the way into the
cortex ); deep conditioning with heat is the most effective.
But again, rinsing well is important (unless you use a leave-in
conditioner).
There's a long list of ingredients that
are used in conditioners. Humectants like glycerin, panthenol
and quaternium-22 bind water to the hair. Silicones (ingredients
ending in the word "methicone") add shine and lubricate.
Proteins fill in chips in the cuticle, making hair feel more
full. And emollients, such as fatty acids and fatty alcohols
(cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and stearic acid are a few),
oils and lanolin coat the hair to protect it and seal in water,
though oils and lanolin can be too greasy for many people.
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